I felt river hiking is an experience I must try, especially in Zion National Park, which is truly a natural marvel. Water is the very thing that created Zion Canyon. One of its most unique features is the Narrows, the narrowest section of Zion Canyon, where the walls rise a thousand feet high. The Virgin River can be as narrow as twenty to thirty feet across. Exploring this gorge by wading through the waters adds an element of challenge and adventure. Unlike conventional hikes, the trail here is always changing!
I was thrilled to have this unique experience. The day before the hike, we gathered all the necessary information about the dos and don’ts, precautions, and checked our cold-weather gear to ensure that the adventure would be drama-free.
The following day, we rechecked the weather for clear skies and the forecast of the water level in the Narrows, an area known for its susceptibility to flash floods. Dressed in my beanie and North Face puffer jacket, with a daypack containing essentials like water and snacks, we boarded the classic shuttle and arrived at the Temple of Sinawava.
Once there, we visited a nearby shop to rent dry pants. To keep our feet dry and warm, we also equipped ourselves with canyoneering shoes and neoprene socks. A hiking stick was essential for navigating the uneven, slippery rocky river bed and providing support along the way.
Hiking upstream as far as Big Spring does not require a wilderness permit, so we were all set with our gears and daypacks, ready to embrace the adventure ahead! This hike is an out-and-back route that begins along the paved Riverside Walk, which extends for one mile from the Temple of Sinawava.
The trail is known as the Bottom-Up Hike towards Wall Street. Crowds typically begin to thin out after fall break, but it was still quite popular during our visit. The first half mile was filled with tourists, but as we continued, we found ourselves among fellow hikers. At this point we left the pavement and started hiking in the river.
This day hike offered me the chance to explore some of the most spectacular and narrow areas of the canyon. Fall is a beautiful time in Zion, and The Narrows was particularly breathtaking. The slanting sunlight created an amazing atmosphere, and the colorful leaves complemented the vibrant canyon walls. Although I had previously hiked through Antelope Canyon in Arizona and appreciated its stunning walls, I couldn’t help but compare with this while walking along the riverbed and taking in the vast sandstone formations was unparalleled.
As soon as the water trail began, we had opportunities to walk through the river. The water level was low, making hiking in the river quite easy. The water was cold, with a flow rate between 30 and 60 cubic feet per second, reaching from our ankles to our knees. Using Narrow’s gear allowed us to enjoy our hike and navigate the river more efficiently. I often stopped to marvel at how million years of river erosion have carved 1500-foot walls. While mesmerized by the magnificent canyon and the unique experience of walking in the water, we also paid close attention to any changes in water flow and clarity. Even a slight increase in flow, a shift to murky, silt-laden water, a roaring sound from upstream, or a rapid increase in vegetation in the water could indicate a potential flood. However, at this time of year, with clear skies, flooding was unlikely.
The weather throughout the fall remained mostly mild, with average highs in the 60s and 70s. The air within the canyon was a cool breeze with whiffs of a mix of earthy and natural scents of sandstone walls.
We crossed the river and then hiked along the bank for a while. Throughout the hike, we alternated between walking along the bank, crossing the river, and walking directly in the river. There were little pools with stagnant water around boulders, adding more noticeable smell of decaying vegetation to the air. As we splashed through the gentle and rushing currents, we could hear distant voices echoing in the background.
As we continued our hike deeper into the slot canyon, wading through the Virgin River beneath the towering sandstone walls, it felt as though we had entered a cathedral. We crossed the Gateway to the Narrows and made our way to Mystery Falls. After about half a mile of entering the river, we finally arrived at Mystery Falls. This is a beautiful area where the water cascades down the flat canyon wall in a series of small rivulets , as the canyon walls are water-resistant. We walked over to the wall and took a moment to appreciate the micro-waterfalls.
Although crowds typically thin out after fall break, the area still attracted many visitors. The first half-mile was particularly crowded with tourists, but as they began to disperse, there was more space for those of us who were hiking. Many areas off that bank provide opportunities for exploring.
I was pleasantly surprised by how a canyon could showcase such stunning scenery, with its towering red walls and vibrant colors. The crystal-clear water enhanced the breathtaking landscape. As we moved through the canyon, we saw from wide, open sections to narrower, more intimate corridors, offering new vistas around every bend. The towering walls of the canyon evoke a range of powerful emotions, from awe and humility to the realization of our smallness in comparison to the vastness of nature. The intimate relationship of the river and majestic gorge inspired a profound connection to the Mother Earth.
Navigating the shifting riverbed and carefully picking my way over loose, slippery rocks required concentration and physical endurance. The unstable footing made me grip my walking stick like a third leg. The cold weather and the effort of wading through the frigid water dampened my desire to hike longer, even though I enjoyed the views at spots like Narrows Alcove before turning back. I focused on the soothing sound of the gurgling water. It was an easy to moderate day hike, and this route is popular among most Narrows hikers who come to see the famous Wall Street section ahead in the canyon.
The hike back down the Virgin River was similar to the hike up, as we were retracing our steps. We found it a bit easier this time because we were moving down stream in the direction of the water current . The canyon walls appeared different in the midday sun than we started. The increase in temperature was also a welcome relief to the cold we felt.
After walking through the Virgin River, we returned to the paved Riverside Walk. This paved trail was a welcome change for our cold and tired feet and a stable ground for our footing. A highlight on the way back was when people asked about the water temperature or how the shoes felt! It felt like I was walking on jelly! And was the river hike worth it? Definitely!
The Zion Narrows is an extraordinary hike. The trail is unique, and the planning required is different compared to a typical trail hike. No wonder it is a sought after hike in the American West.
Leave a Reply